What is the best fungicide to get rid of powdery mildew? Fungicides generally come in liquid form and can be of two types based on their mode of action. Contact fungicides kill fungi immediately after application, while systemic fungicides are first absorbed by the treated plant and only then become effective. They also differ by the type of active ingredients. Organic fungicides typically contain the oils of neem, rosemary, jojoba, or the bacterium called Bacillus subtilis. Chemical solutions can be made with azoxystrobin, mancozeb, myclobutanil, benomyl, copper oxychloride, copper hydroxide, difenoconazole, and a number of other ingredients.
Today tons of fungicides aimed at eliminating harmful plant fungi and at protecting plants from terrible diseases are sold in stores all over the place.
Various factors influence the choice of the right fungicide, including the type of disease and how far it’s progressed.
Since fungicides can be harmful to humans and pets, and the efficacy depends on choosing the correct product, the best thing to do is follow some professional advice.
Our guide unites the scientists’ recommendations and experienced farmers’ tips. We have intentionally placed the review of the most effective fungicide at the end of the review because it’s the diagnosis which comes first and foremost. In order to diagnose your plant correctly you need to know as much as possible about plant diseases, and most of our guide is devoted to that matter! Getting rid of fungus takes wit!
Plant pathogenic fungi cause diseases in ornamental and in home grown as well as in agricultural crops. Plant diseases are known to gardeners and farmers alike.
Here is what fungi do to plants:
The spores of fungi are found in soil, air, in and on other plants and in water. They are spread with the wind, water, birds, insects, other animals, tools and implements and even people! After a spore lands on a plant tissue and invades it, the fungus starts living off the plant. They penetrate the plant tissue deeply and feed off the plant and start growing inside or on top of green plant tissue. As the growth of the fungus progresses, it depletes the plant of energy and the cells inside the leaves collapse and die, or they become completely overgrown with fungus. When this happens, the green leaf area diminishes. Plants use their green leaf area for photosynthesis, a process by which they capture sunlight and convert it to energy. When there is less green leaf area available for the plant, photosynthesis cannot take place as successfully as before and the plant starts suffering the consequences.
Most often it is the external symptoms which hint that the plant’s been infected with a fungus. Green plants can be covered with white cottony growth and rusty-hued patches, colored spots, or rotting pieces of lumpy outgrowths. Moreover, fungi make the plants wither, become deformed, dry and they can get covered with tumors and cease to bear fruit. In case of lawn and ground grass, fungi may also cause bald spots in the lawn, as the plants die off from the fungal infection.
Various types of symptoms are caused by dozens of different types of fungi. Here is a list of some of the common diseases found on plants
Fungicides are classified depending on their mode of action. Here’s what it looks like.
What do all of the fungicides do to fungi? Some of them stop fungal growth and reproduction, others block enzymes and cellular respiration, and others do not let fungi synthesize proteins and lipids for cellular membranes.
As a rule, most fungicides, even those that are sold as organic fungicides, may be toxic to humans and animals. Here are 9 tips for the use of fungicides in the home environment.
Powdery mildew spores are mainly transmitted through the air. The fungus loves damp and humid weather, and plants to which high rate nitrogen was applied are very likely to get this disease.
Photo by Ida Wilson
It is important to apply fungicide to your plants as soon as this disease is noticed, because when the disease progresses it may be very difficult to get the upper hand.
At first, if you are trying to protect the plant against powdery mildew you can use a baking soda solution. The recipe can be found here. If the plant has a more serious infection of powdery mildew, a fungicide will be required to treat the plant.
As for specific products against powdery mildew, we recommend the following product range:
Problems with snow mold only become apparent after the snow starts melting in the spring. It cannot be treated after the symptoms were seen, so a preventative approach is best. Fungicides need to be applied to the lawn before winter time, to be sure that when spring comes the dead patches of the lawn will not be seen again.
There are quite a few preventive fungicides against this problem.
You can find loads of useful information in the “A fresh look at fungicides for snow mold control“ study.
The experts approve of dozens of different fungicides, and it is easy to drown in the long list of names. That’s why we decided to help you and picked the most effective products that can be purchased online.
This is a classic copper-based fungicide suitable for flowers, fruits and vegetables. It treats powdery mildew, black spots and early blight. It is to be mixed with water in the proportions outlined on the package and to be sprayed. The customers claim that one spraying session per month is enough, but the product should be used more often if it rains often or if the plants are frequently watered.
Start using it early, even before any signs of disease appear and continue to spray it on every week. Rotate your crop so that you aren’t planting in the spots where you had blight last year, it will remain in the soil from year to year.
There are a few mentions of the effectiveness of the product against lawn fungi. Still, around 65% of the customers consider this product useful.
Price: Check the current price
This is a similar product by the same manufacturer. This one isn’t to be dissolved in the water, as it is sold as a ready-to-use spray. The fungicide contains copper octanoate, which is a copper salt combined with a naturally occurring fatty acid. The concentration level of the chemical is aimed at protecting the greenery from chemical burns.
The manufacturer insists on spraying the leaves abundantly. Customers don’t advise spraying it before the rain, as its complete absorption takes 24 to 48 hours. Next time you’ll have to spray it after 2-4 weeks. About 80% of users were satisfied with the operation of the chemical.
Price: Check the current price
This is a versatile fungicide that is highly rated by the users. It is suitable for most garden plants and lawns. It is especially highly rated by the fans of roses. Here is a list of diseases against which Immunox acts: black spot, blight, brown patch, copper spot, crown rot, dollar spot, leaf smut, leaf spot, melting out, necrotic ring spot, powdery mildew, red thread, rust, scab, spring dead spot, and summer patch.
It is protective fungicide which is best suited for the prevention of diseases and protection of plants against fungal attacks. This artificial chemical is not washed away by the rain and remains on the leaves for two weeks. Depending on the purpose of application (treatment, prevention, protection), the manufacturers recommend using three methods of applying the product: with pump-up Sprayer, dial-style hose-end sprayer and plus water-style sprayer concentrate.
Judging by the reviews, one bottle is enough for treating 500 square feet. Customers write that it works best with delicate plants and small leaves. Many reviews are devoted to successful lawn disease control.
Price: Check the current price
Bayer is a renowned manufacturer, and the quality of its products is unlikely to be questionable. This systemic organic fungicide rated highly and not only prevents but also treats the diseases. It controls black spot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, late blight, and scab.
A single bottle is diluted in 32 gallons of water. The mixture can be applied to both leaves and fruits. In the comments section, we were able to find contradictory feedback regarding the necessity of repeat application. Some customers claim that they were able to solve the problem after a single treatment, while others insist on compulsory repetition of the procedure after 1-2 weeks. Perhaps, everything depends on the type of fungus and the extent of plant contamination. Fortunately, the fungicide is harmless for worms and useful insects.
Price: Check the current price
This is an expert-proven Chlorothalonil-based product. It is perfectly suitable for powdery mildew treatment. This product was manufactured by Syngenta AG, a Swiss concern which is one of the leaders in the production of crop protection products and seeds. A single bottle is enough for 64 gallons of liquid to be sprayed. The product is considered to be protective fungicide acting on contact and of a wide range of action. However, as it can result in phytotoxicity, it’s not recommended for pittosporum or schefflera.
Price: Check the current price
This is a product is devised especially for lawn disease prevention. A 2.3% Thiophanate-methyl is the active ingredient here. Experienced users recommend using the product in the spring, otherwise, it may be too late, as Scotts Lawn won’t be able to remove the fungus. A single bag is enough for 4-5 thousand sq. ft.
Price: Check the current price
This is a 16-ounce bottle of a concentrated insecticide intended for the application to roses, ornamentals, trees, shrubbery, and lawns. The solution is based on Propiconazole, an active ingredient which is particularly known for its strong anti-feeding properties against carpet beetles.
You will need this product to deal with such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, brown patch, red thread, and some other fungal infections. One product will be enough approximately for 1,000 square feet of the infested area.
Customers suggest that in order to treat 250 square feet of the lawn, you should take 4 ounces of concentrate and mix it to a gallon of water. A pump spray bottle can be used to apply the mixture. Those who have tried this product say that the effect will be noticeable within a week.
Price: Check the current price
Potassium bicarbonate is an organic chemical compound (KHCO3) looking like white powder widely used in various industries: medicine, sport, cooking, and even agriculture. This protective fungicide is a real salvation for the plants growing in acidic soils as it:
Why is it often used as a replacement of baking soda (NaHCO3) for treating the plants? Based on its chemical composition, it seems that the difference between them is almost non-existent and their chemical properties are similar. But this is only a first impression.
It is known that when in contact with the ground, both baking soda and potassium bicarbonate eventually settle therein as chlorine salts which are useful for plant nutrition and growth, but an excess amount of which can cause substantial damage (sodium soda can be especially harmful). That’s why you cannot use these fungicides haphazardly! Treating the plants with them is possible only in certain seasons, spring or fall, depending on the soil type. You can use any of them, but potassium bicarbonate is considered more effective than baking soda. Studies conducted by American scientists from the NCBI show that “the applications of potassium bicarbonate (as Armicarb) are effective in reducing the incidence and severity of American powdery mildew in gooseberry”. According to the experiment carried out, the rate of plant infection decreased from 90 to 10% given constant spraying.
Unlike potassium bicarbonate, baking soda doesn’t eliminate powdery mildew on plants, but only prevents its spreading. This fact was noted multiple times by the gardeners using it as a fungicide and comparing its action with that of potassium bicarbonate. In spite of the fact that soda has been used as a fungicide for over 80 years, Purdue University specialists have also found out that “baking soda can be effective against plant diseases when used with oil, its sodium component can build up and become toxic to plants”
That’s why we believe that the choice between potassium bicarbonate vs baking soda is quite obvious.
Here’s a popular fungicide recipe based on potassium bicarbonate:
“Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate with one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. There are commercial EPAs registered as well as generic products available”.
The bicarbonate itself can be bought at a moderate price of Check the current price per 1 Lb.
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Michael Potter, Ph. D. In biology, is a consultant and author for StopPestInfo.com. He is a scientists obsessed with the idea to save the world from pets. --- Think there's a typo
I have what I think is quince rust on a Eastern Red Cedar tree about 40 feet tall that is about 20 feet from a common cedar tree that is dyeing from something similar in appearance to quince rust ,the fungus is mostly on the lower branches of the Eastern Red but is on most of the common cedar. I need your help in getting the best fungicide for treating the Eastern Red, I'm going to cut down the common cedar and remove it, it seems to me that a systemic would be a good choice. My neighbor had a large common cedar tree dye and it took about 3 years. I live in North East Arkansas, Thank you, Bill
At home, one corner constantly heats up when it rains! There, this fungus constantly breeds, we do not even know what to do with it! I understand that the fungicide will cope with this problem? And which mark better to take?
I once encountered a fungus in plants. and it was very unpleasant!!! I had a gardener help me get rid of this stuff. And we have been waiting for the result for a long time. Be careful. And good luck with the fungus
I am actually looking for a powder fungicide that I can use on dahlia and begonia tubers. thanks
Hey !! Thank you for this very helpful info. I am in zone 7 , it has rained almost everyday this summer . If I didn't have a fungicide, I'd have ZERO success with my gardens ! I have been using spectracide. I have read that it is a good idea to switch with diff fungicide occasionally to keep them working . So I googled about different fungicides , and I'm searching to decide which one I should use occasionally in place of spectracide. I try to be very very very careful and aware on the environment. But it's truly impossible to grow anything without one of these treatments in my area. The humidity is intense. Even with good garden hygeine. Before I started growing plants, our yard still was filled with blights towards the end of summer. So I do believe in this case, it is best to help lesson the amount of fungal disease with a fungicide. I know many people will disagree and are against the use of the non organic types.. which is perfectly fine I just wish they didn't judge so harshly.
Anyway thank you all for this !!